Dries Van Noten
The dandy inspired collection featured masculine tailored pieces and thin coloured stripes, complemented with chunky patent brogues with contrasting soles. Tropical prints in muted tones livened up suits, white silk fringing added movement and layers to various looks. Oversized wool coats in floral and silver prints on brown, swamped pyjama style trousers. Chunky jewelled necklaces were thrown over collars of shirts, to add a feminine touch. Brows subtly stood out from matt porcelain skin and hair shone, with side swept long fringes.
An enormous rotating globe featuring lit up Chanel logos of every location of a Chanel store in the word, was the centre piece of the show. Models of the moment displayed the graphic collection, full of twinges of colour against lots of black and white. Prints dominated through out; vertical floral prints, geometric prints and Spirograph prints were offset by black in various pieces. Metallics added interest to tweeds, skirts were flared and leather flat boots were thigh high. Chunky necklaces were placed over hair, to flatten around the neck. Karl Lagerfeld graced the catwalk, in the opposite direction to the models at the end. Almost as if he was showing world domination of the Chanel brand, as the globe slowly rotated.
Clean cut tailoring defined Rabanne's presentation, featuring pleated skirts and leather pieces. Polo necks with pockets added simple touches to looks and metallic hues offered a contrast to the navy tones. Nude make up was teamed with deep side parted, sleek hair.
Jewel tones and metallics dazzled in silks and leathers. Jackets were oversized with large shoulders and floor length dresses flowed past models. Large metallic square patches in an assortment of colours added quirky detailing to everything from jackets to skirts. Pretty eye shadow in whites and silvers were swept over lids and tied silk patterned scarves hid hair, with navy rimmed hats over the top.
Puffa jackets and parkas were mixed to create puffa parkas, an interesting feature in David's collection. Holographic prints added quirky touches and sheer fabrics allowed shoulders and arms to peek through. Velvet made an appearance on skirts, whilst textured shaggy fabrics on skirts and coats cosily hinted to the warm element of the collection. The odd hint of colour such as purple and red, popped up on details such as cross body bags. Bare faces highlighted simple hair; the front section pulled back tightly and secured with a Kirby grip. The hair completed the simple teenage 90's collection with one detail missing; bubble gum.
Lanvin's AW collection is not for the faint hearted. Insects ruled the catwalk in print and embellishment. Models wore their insects with pride alongside exaggerated necklaces that could possibly cause neck pain. Floral and dalmatian prints also featured on strapless dresses, coats and jumpers. Skirts were flared and waists defined, amongst the ruffles and wool two pieces. Lips were dramatic in dark plum tones, whilst hair was pulled back in to low pony tails.
COMME des GARÇONS
Kaleidoscope and illusion: the two best words to describe Rei Kawakubo's collection for Comme des Garçons. The architectural designs created wacky silhouettes that exaggerated shoulders and 3D flowers that bulged out from the body. Print complemented shape and form, featuring vertical pinstripes and complicated geometric patterns in multi rainbow hues. The tailored suit and jacket was revamped to create a tailored jumpsuit, complete with pockets and large detailed shoulders. Plain plimsolls in black and white allowed the clothes to fully stand out and take credit. Natural make up made room for the sponge/mop like head piece with paint marks, which looked as if the sponge/mop had smudged paint on to the model's foreheads. Almost as if the clothes were works of art, created by an artist who left their tools on top of the completed art works.