Images by Evan Schreiber via Dazed Digital
Melancholy is a theme that runs deeply within Thom Browne's AW15 collection, shown this week at New York Fashion Week. Thick black textures paired with delicate meshes of lace, take centre stage to a layered performance that adds character to the collection. The contrast of character is obvious; the clinical white sharp suits and shift dresses assume the role of the 'deceased', whilst the heavy layered, rich black silhouettes are the mourners.
Inspired after the Metropolitan Museum's 'Death Becomes Her' exhibition, Browne nods to the 19th century mourning clothes that inspired him creatively y adding his unique twist. Reminiscent of the eerie Victorian-esque theme of his SS14 collection, Browne has upped his game by incorporating heavier materials and fabric mixes, such as fur, brocade and embellishment to play against the translucent quality of the delicate laces. One single black tear on the cheek, is just enough make-up for the funeral performance of the AW15 collection.
The minimalistic vibes of the white characters suggest instead of playing deceased, they could be higher beings? Simplistic looks, plain faces and harsh white painted hair which all adds to a sense of an all knowing power. Either way I adore Thom Browne's collections every season.
Check out Thom Browne SS14 collection.
Images via Bullett Media
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